11 Days 10 Nights Tohoku Autumn Itinerary
Day 1:
Singapore - Tokyo
Used JR Pass.
I Flew into Tokyo and obtained my JR pass in the airport then took a shinkansen out to Tokyo. I usually advise against acquiring a JR Pass as the cost often does not work out. But as I will be taking multiple long-distance shinkansen , I opted to get myself a flexible 5 day JR East Pass (Tohoku Area) this time.
The Pass can be used in multiple bus routes within Tohoku to destinations that cannot be accessed by trains alone. However, I had made a fundamental mistake on this trip by assuming that the bus passes can be used on days outside of the 5 flexible days and is separate from the trains - don't make the same mistake as I did.
Bus Routes available on the JR East Pass: https://www.jreast.co.jp/e/pdf/jrbus_press_e.pdf
I checked into my "Airbnb" - just kidding, I got myself into my friend's place who has graciously opened up her place to me. Then I took a train to Todoroki JR TRAIN station to check out the quiet Todoroki ravine park. I have been to Tokyo multiple times and have long since lost interest in the likes of Shinjuku, Harajuku or Akihabara. But if you'd like to sneak some city trapes into the itinerary, feel free to do so.
I proceeded to Shibuya for a bit of shopping and dinner with my friend. We had Ichiran Ramen at Shibuya in the evening. Check out this hidden alley branch at Shibuya that doesn't have as much queue. I also recommend you check out this Cremia Soft serve ice cream with delicious biscuit cone for just 515yen. The ice cream is incredibly silky, creamy and has a nice combination of sweet with mild saltiness. The cone is also this incredible ShiroKoibito-like biscuit cone. It can be enjoyed in multiple places like Dolci Cafe Silkream (take out only) or Excelsior Cafe. The ice cream is 15 yen cheaper in the latter and dine-in is allowed. This particular branch also has a spanning view of the beautiful street below it.
Day 2:
Tokyo – Hirosaki - Aomori
I didn’t wake up as early as I’d liked and then took an 11:20am Shinkansen to Aomori. I actually left my friend’s apartment around 9am but the train travel and purchasing of Shinkansen tickets took longer than I expected. The Shinkansen is spacious, comes with power sockets and have impeccably clean toilets. Train Staff would come by every other hour with a food cart but I found the food selection a little limited. I was hoping to grab a tasty Eki-Ben (Train Bento) for lunch but I eventually settled on a slice of chocolate cake with tea instead.
I reached JR Shin Aomori around 1:42pm and immediately took another local train to Hirosaki to maximise my JR Pass. The view along the way was very beautiful and I met a kind Obasan (Old lady) who struck up a conversation with me and told me when the nice views will turn up.
She also told me about the 100yen Dote-Machi Loop Bus in Hirosaki. I arrived at JR Hirosaki station around 3:58pm, found a coin locker to hold my baggage and headed to the Hirosaki Castle.
The Dote Machi Loop Bus has a bus stop just outside the JR station. It is in between berth 1 and 2. I believe I alighted at the Bunka Center-Mae (Cultural Center) bus stop. It was around 5pm by the time I arrived and the sun was setting rapidly.
I wasn’t able to enter the Hirosaki castle as they close at 5pm but I enjoyed the park around it.
I had an amazing dinner at a restaurant near the train station. I unknowingly ordered a Mentaiko hot pot with Innards (Motsu Nabe) and it was the most amazing meal of the entire trip. The broth was strong, thick and satisfying without leaving you nauseated. The bits of meat (or innards) were fragrant, chewy with no nasty innards scent while the vegetables were fresh, sweet and oh so delicious! I highly recommend you try this dish out when you are in Japan. I returned to Aomori via train and checked into Hotel Abest Aomori. Check out my review video of the hotel room on Youtube here.
Day 3:
Mt Hakkoda. Used JR Pass.
I woke up bright and early and went to the Aomori Tourist Information Center beside the JR station.
The bus towards Lake Towadako is at Berth 11 which is just in front of the Tourist Information Center entrance. The bus ticket for a one way trip from Aomori to Hakkoda Ropeway Station Bus stop is 1100 yen. There is also a 2-days unlimited ride ticket that covers Aomori - Hachinohe - Lake Towadako for 5000yen ( 2500 Child). You can buy all the tickets from the ticketing machine inside the Tourist Information Center (picture below). English is available. City Wifi is also available in certain areas in Aomori.
I had some time to burn before my 9:55 AM bus so I had breakfast at the nearby Yoshinoya. The breakfast cost 510yen.
Bus Timetable: https://www.jrbustohoku.co.jp/route/detail.php?r=64&rc=11
Bus Map: https://www.jrbustohoku.co.jp/en/aomori.pdf
I made some fundamental mistake in my planning for this trip due to a lack of information and wasted money that could've been saved.
I explored the Mt Hakkoda and Lake Towadako area in day 3 - 4 of this trip. I recommend you stay the night in Lake Towadako Area instead of returning to Aomori like I did as Mt. Hakkoda , Lake Towadako and Yowase River are actually very close and is accessed with the exact same bus.
The Bus to Hakkoda Ropeway is clean and comfortable but there are no toilets on the bus. The Ropeway (cable car ride) cost 1180yen for one way and 1850 for return. I believe you can hike down during summer but as I visited during autumn, the option was not availed to me. The temperature was 3.2 degrees celsius when I was at the peak and the mountain was filled with snow! Check out the vlog of my day at the top and see how I struggled with the snow.
I decided to do the Tamoyachidake Nature Trail walk and was thankful the Ropeway provided rubber boots for free. Some part of the trail had me in calf-deep snow and I can only imagine how fun wet pants must be. The trail takes roughly an hour to complete. I took the 3:03 PM bus back and arrived at Sapporo around 3:53 PM. The bus down had some pretty nice autumn views and USB charging ports!
The area around my hotel has quite a few restaurants and Izakaya (pubs) but Aomori city central remains a relatively quiet place that does not offer much for a solo backpacker. Henceforth it is not recommended to spend too much time here.
I toyed with the idea of having dinner at a local Izakaya place because it has a Shamisen performance at 7:00pm but decided against it. Instead, I spent some time at the Daiso (100yen budget store) across my hotel and grabbed some food from the Convenience Store.
Day 4:
Aomori - Lake Towadako (Oirase Stream)
Used JR Pass.
I took a morning bus to Lake Towadako with my JR pass and toured the Oirase Stream. The bus is the same bus as the previous day and bus rides within the mountain can also be used with the JR Pass.
The bus takes 2 short breaks along the way - One at Sukayu Onsen and another at Tsuta Onsen. There is a complimentary longevity tea spring at the entrance of Sukayu Onsen. The stop at Tsuta Onsen was quaint with some photogenic autumn landscape.
The drive up to the mountain was like going through a fire tunnel of red and orange hues. I arrived at Lake Towadako station (terminal stop), checked into my hostel and left my bags behind. Then, using my JR East Pass, I took a bus to Yakeyama bus stop and walked along the Oirase Stream. Sadly I was a little late for the autumn foliage but it was still a very beautiful and peaceful walk.
The buses end early and there are hardly any restaurants around Lake Towadako so I had dinner at my hostel. I opted for the Beef Curry that only cost 600yen. I recommend you order your meals with the staff in advance to prevent disappointment.
Then I then went to Hotel Towadaso which is walking distance for a well-earned Onsen (500yen). And spent the evening getting to know a Japanese traveller who star gazed with me at the backyard.
I stayed at the only dormitory available in the area called Towadako Backpackers. It is walking distance to the Towadako JR Terminal Station and the lake itself. The place is cozy, simple and the staff was very friendly. My favourite part about the hostel was how delicious the tap water tasted. Yes, you didn't read me wrongly, water can be drunk straight out of the tap and because it is mountain water, it tasted impeccable!
Day 5:
Lake Towadako
I had breakfast at the Hostel and checked out of the place. Then I took a boat tour of Lake Towadako and explored the area on foot. The boat tour allowed me to look at the cliffs around the lake from a different perspective and I enjoyed it very much. The water was so blue and transparent! The boat ride cost me 1400yen and ended at Nenokuchi. I then walked towards Utarube and enjoyed the autumn foliage along the way.
I picked up my luggage from my hostel and made my way to the JR Towadako Bus station. I bought my ticket from a machine inside the station that also functions as a shop that sells an assortment of local specialties. English is available in the machine.
I arrived in Hachinohe after the sunset. Suica Pass cannot be used in this area and I had to buy a train ticket with cash. Checked into the hotel (Hotel Pearl City Hachinohe), bought some food from the local supermarket and had dinner in my hotel room (again).
Day 6: Morioka Ryusendo
Day 6 of the itinerary was Ryusendo Cave. After I checked out of my hotel, I took a train to JR Morioka Train Station. I left my baggage in a coin locker (500yen) near Morioka Train station and hopped onto a bus towards Ryusendo. I recommend you ultilise your JR Pass today if you have one as the bus trip to Ryusendo is covered by the Pass.
The Bus towards Ryusendo Cave can be found at Berth 1, just outside the East Exit from the train station. The bus costs 2660yen (adult, one way) and can be bought from the automated ticket machine outside the train control station. The bus takes roughly 2hrs 14minutes.
This is the Bus schedule (Morioka - Ryusendo-Mae)
The entrance ticket to Ryusendo cost 1000yen and covers both the Ryusendo Cave itself and the Shindo Science Museum 100 meter across it. The Limestone cave showcases impressive stalactites and is one of Japan's three largest limestone caverns. However, the portions that are open only took me around an hour to complete so it is best to arrange other activities for the evening. I decided to take the 4:00pm bus back to Morioka since I did not have anything else planned. I spent the time relaxing in Ryusendo's traveller lounging area and explored the forest in front of it. I had dinner at Morioka train station, retrieved my baggage and went to my hotel for the night.
Day 7:
Geibikei
Used JR Pass.
Check out from my hotel and made my way to the Ichinoseki Onsen JR train Station. The journey took around 2 hours and I had breakfast on the train. I stored my baggage in a coin locker outside the station and made my way to the Tourist Information Counter for some help. 
The Bus towards Ryusendo Cave can be found at Berth 1, just outside the East Exit from the train station. The bus costs 2660yen (adult, one way) and can be bought from the automated ticket machine outside the train control station. The bus takes roughly 2hrs 14minutes.
This is the Bus schedule (Morioka - Ryusendo-Mae)
The entrance ticket to Ryusendo cost 1000yen and covers both the Ryusendo Cave itself and the Shindo Science Museum 100 meter across it. The Limestone cave showcases impressive stalactites and is one of Japan's three largest limestone caverns. However, the portions that are open only took me around an hour to complete so it is best to arrange other activities for the evening. I decided to take the 4:00pm bus back to Morioka since I did not have anything else planned. I spent the time relaxing in Ryusendo's traveller lounging area and explored the forest in front of it. I had dinner at Morioka train station, retrieved my baggage and went to my hotel for the night.
Day 7:
Geibikei
Used JR Pass.
Train frequency around this area is sparse so make sure you plan your route down to every detail. If you plan appropriately, you might be able to save a few pennies. Check out my other blog entry about how to save money in Japan.
You can aim to visit both Geibikei Gorge and Genbikei Gorge. Geibikei can be accessed both by bus and train but the bus cannot be used with the JR East Pass. I was not able to visit Genbikei due to time constraints - I woke up early and did my route planning but made the mistake of searching the train routes for the wrong date. The change in my transport modes for the day also wasted my 1 day worth of JR pass.
The bus from Ichinoseki to Geibikei took roughly 30 minutes. Check out the transport details and timetables in the image below.
Boat ride at Geibikei cost 1600yen and the duration is 90minutes.
I spent the evening exploring Ichinoseki city central 's Tsuriyama Park for some Maple trees and night illumination. The entrance to the humble park is free.
I ended the night by taking a train to Naruko Onsen. I decided to stay within Naruko-Onsen Village itself and arrived way past check-in time and had a bit of hiccup. Thank goodness the hotel was very accommodating! If you intend to arrive late, I recommend you give them a head-up prior.
The Hostel I stayed for the next two nights is Yoshitsune Yukarinoyu Ubanoyu in Naruko Onsen Village. It is an old-school bath hotel with 4 different hot springs. I enjoyed the traditional paper sliding doors, tatami floors, and the complimentary Yukata outfits. However, the place is slightly difficult to access without a car and the accommodation does not have western showering facilities. They only have the Japanese sento (public bath) available beside the hot springs.
Day 8
Naruko Gorge
I spent the day visiting the beautiful Naruko Gorge. There used to be a 2 km walking trail that connects Naruko-Onsen station to the gorge but most part of the trail has been closed after an earthquake in 2008. So I took a train to Nakayama Daira Station and walked approximately 35minutes to reach the actual Gorge. There is a Narukokyo resthouse beside the gorge overlooking the bridge that sells a range of local produces and souvenirs along with a simple restaurant and toilet facilities.
Due to how isolated the destination is and how limited the trains are, it is hard to fit anything else into the day. I spent the evening enjoying the onsen facilities in my guesthouse.
Day 9
Nikko.
Used JR Pass.
I checked out from Naruko-Onsen and took a series of trains to reach Nikko. The journey was approximately 227 - 326 minus ($10,050 yen - 13,980 yen). I ultilised my JR East Pass for this day.
Nikko is a small town just 2 hours away from Tokyo with many monuments, temples, and natural scenery. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage site.
It was raining and misty when I arrived. I checked into my awesome hostel (Tora Hostel) and left my baggage behind to explore the Irohazaka Winding Road. I took the 1A Tobu bus from Nikko Bus Terminal to Chuzenji Onsen (2000yen). The Bus berth is right in front of the train station.
I spent the day exploring the mountain area by taking the Akechidaira Ropeway ( 730yen) and the Ryuzu Waterfall.
The famous Nikko Toshogu temple in Nikko was having a special night illumination festival (Light Up Nikko) at the weekend I was there. And the manager of my hostel kindly ferried a bunch of us to the temples. Unfortunately for us, the fog only thickened as the night progressed but we still managed to have an enjoyable time.
Day 10
Nikko - Tokyo
I checked out of my hostel very early and took a train back to Tokyo. My last free day in Tokyo has been set aside for some personal matters and shopping. I would recommend you check out the mega drugstores that offer a tax refund for tourists if you spent more than 5000yen.
Day 11
Tokyo - Singapore
Took a train to the airport in the morning and end the vacation.
I hope you found my itinerary useful in planning for your next Tohoku adventure. If you liked what you see, remember to leave me a comment. A bit of encouragement would help me continue to share my travel tips and itinerary with everyone.
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3 comments:
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Hi May I know what’s the name of this pass as I realised it’s not a 5-day consecutive JR Tohoku East Pass? Thank you
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